Optimized for maximum chomp, these beer-battered onion rings feature a tempura-like coating that turns golden brown and shatteringly crisp in the fryer. Plus, they’ll stay crunchy for hours. Based on the ones served at LA’s L&E Oyster Bar, they get their lightness from a combination of sparkling water and lager-style beer, with the latter providing a lip-smacking malty flavor.

To create satisfyingly thick rings, start with large onions (the biggest ones you can find) and set aside the small interior onion pieces for another use. You’ll coat the onions in a two-step process. First, toss them with flour and let them sit so the juices meld with the flour’s starch. This is key to allowing the batter to adhere. Next, you’ll sink the floured onions in the batter just before deep-frying. Hot oil is crucial, so use a deep-fry thermometer to maintain a steady temperature. Arrange the cooked, crispy onion rings on wire racks and stash in a warm oven until the cooking is complete.

For even crispier results, swap out about ⅓ cup of the flour for EverCrisp, a readily available modified starch beloved by both home cooks and professionals. You can adjust the seasonings to suit your taste: add black pepper, coriander, or chili powder. Or go rogue with something like baharat or Doritos seasoning. And if you spot a sweet onion, such as Maui, Walla Walla, or Vidalia onions, feel free to use them instead.

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