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This crop of scents is reminiscent of stables and rodeos and characterized by notes like leather, suede, grass, hay, whiskey, and tobacco. “They evoke images of rugged landscapes and timeless freedom,” says Dumur. “Their appeal lies in their ability to transport wearers to an adventurous, nostalgic atmosphere.”
Refining these notes involves “careful balance and precise blending” to avoid them smelling too much like a stable, she adds. For example, Dumur’s most recent fragrance for Penhaligon’s, Fortuitous Finley (inspired not by Americana but by wild Arabian horses) incorporates a suede accord that the perfumer elevated with notes of violet leaf and pistachio. “It creates a sophisticated composition while still retaining its raw edge,” she explains.
At Luckyscent.com, Boyds of Texas High Desert is trending, says cofounder Franco Wright. According to Spate, searches for leather perfume are up 57.6%, with tobacco scents close behind at 54.3%. Iconic cowboy brand Stetson is experiencing a resurgence with its 2023 scent Legend (the face of which happens to be Yellowstone actor Luke Grimes), and even Wrangler has its own pair of eaux.
Prestige brands are also dipping their toes into Western waters. Tom Ford launched Eau d’Ombré Leather in 2024 (cardamom, coriander, vanilla, and leather), complete with line-dancing models in the ad campaign. Yves Saint Laurent’s new Caban scent combines hay and tobacco with classic gourmand notes of tonka bean, almond, and caramel, while Marissa Zappas has Violette Hay that includes hay and violet notes (a common pairing) as well as carrot seeds, suede, and saffron.
Boozy citrus
Summer’s juicy, citrus-centered scents are sticking around for fall, but with a boozier twist. “Seasonal cocktails are going to be used to update citrus scents and bring this indulgent gourmand edge to them,” says Trizzino. Expect to see notes like orange peel, lemon, and bergamot spiked with tipples of whisky, rum, and bourbon. “Instead of citrus being bright and fresh and juicy, it’s gone to a deeper, darker level because it’s pairing it with these boozy notes,” Trizzino adds.
Boozy accords have been big for a while now. (We saw them bubble up in the spring and summer.) This fall, they’re more dressed up, says Romero. “Think dry whiskey, aged rum, and polished amaretto, often paired with woods or spices that let the alcohol feel warm and elegant rather than loud—like a dimly lit bar after midnight.”
Malin + Goetz Dark Rum, which combines bergamot, plum, rum, and vanilla, is a classic example of this trend. In Borntostandout’s Smokin’ Gun, whiskey and rum get shaken with juniper and peaty woody notes, while Maison Margiela Replica On a Date muddles bergamot with black currant liqueur for a lighter take on the trend. “The fizzy wine notes capture the feeling of an evening full of cocktails and chemistry,” says Trizzino.
Nocturnal florals
We love sun-drenched white floral fragrances in the summer, but come fall, you can expect moodier counterparts—perfumes inspired by lily of the valley, moonflower, midnight jasmine, evening primrose, and tuberose. This spotlight on night-blooming florals “reflects the transition from summer to autumn, as the days grow darker and the nights get colder,” Trizzino explains.
Perfumehead Moon Flower, recommended by Haas, is a heady floral bouquet of tuberose, night-blooming jasmine, and moonflower wrapped in a base of patchouli and musk. Dossier Orchid & Sandalwood at Dusk, on the other hand, combines orchid and jasmine with spicy cardamom, smoky incense, and woody patchouli. In its Fleurs de Nuit collection, Chloé has three fragrances inspired by night-blooming flowers, and with its spicy, ambery facet, Orchidée de Minuit is warm floral you’ll want to reach for in the cooler months.
Amber
Amber is set to be autumn’s coziest and most popular olfactive category. Scentbird has seen three amber-centric perfumes move into its top 10 bestsellers list this past year: Ariana Grande Cloud (an ambery gourmand), Heretic Parfum Nosferatu (woody amber), and a Y2K blast-from-the-past Prada Candy (also an amber gourmand). Search for amber perfumes is also up according to Spate, with 14.9K monthly searches on Google and an average of 228.2K weekly views on TikTok.
Not all amber fragrances are created equal, though. As a base note, amber provides a “sophisticated, warm, and rich scent, mainly playing a role in the background of a fragrance,” says DSM-Firmenich principal perfumer Frank Voelkl, who adds that there are different types of amber: amber built from vanillic and balsamic accords; amber that’s woody and dry; and minerally, ambergris-like interpretations. This fall, it seems we’re embracing all variations of the fragrance family.
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