Review: Cookoovaya – Wise Cuisine in Athens, Greece

Review: Cookoovaya – Wise Cuisine in Athens, Greece

Nestled in the vibrant Pangrati neighborhood of Athens, Cookoovaya embodies the essence of Greek “wise cuisine,” blending tradition with modern flair. Celebrating its tenth year in 2025, this Michelin Guide-listed restaurant focuses on apheresis – the art of extracting the purest flavors from local ingredients using time-honored techniques. Led by Chef Periklis Koskinas, it honors Greek heritage through simplicity, seasonal produce, and nose-to-tail philosophy. Whether you’re a foodie exploring Athens or seeking an authentic dining experience, here’s a deep dive into what makes Cookoovaya a standout.

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Cookoovaya – Athens – Restaurant – 50Best Discovery

Location and Atmosphere

Cookoovaya is located in the historic Pangrati area, easily accessible for visitors wandering Athens’ cultural sites. The name, meaning “owl” in Greek, ties into its “Wise Cuisine” ethos, with owl motifs symbolizing knowledge and the plates branded “270 degrees” – a nod to an owl’s head rotation.

The ambiance is relaxed yet lively: high ceilings, well-spaced tables, and air-conditioning create comfort, while the open-plan kitchen adds a dynamic buzz. Outdoor seating extends the space, perfect for mild evenings. Service is friendly and attentive without being intrusive, ensuring a seamless experience.

Menu Philosophy and Highlights

The menu champions Greece’s bounty from land and sea, emphasizing root-to-stalk and nose-to-tail usage to minimize waste and maximize flavor. Options include à la carte selections or Chef’s recommendations, with flexibility for dietary needs like pescatarian preferences. Key themes: simplicity, seasonal ingredients, and traditional preparation methods that let natural qualities shine.

Appetizers range from €10 to €25, mains from €30 (e.g., lamb chops with tzatziki), and Wise Tasting Menus at €75 or €85 per person. Desserts hover around €10, offering solid value for a high-end spot. For reservations or the full menu, visit the official Cookoovaya website.

Standout Dishes from the Experience

The review highlights a pescatarian-friendly journey through fresh, meticulously prepared plates:

  • Dorade Royale Carpaccio: With wild fennel pollen, yuzu kosho, and lemon zest – delicate, sweet, and slightly nutty.

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  • Greek Salad: Featuring feta from Arkadia in the Peloponnese – less aged, low-salt, and silkier than standard varieties. Quote: “Almost no aging, less salt, and a much softer and silkier texture than normal feta.”

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  • Scallops on Smoked Eggplant Purée with Jalapeño: The star of the show – succulent and memorable. “It was so succulent and still makes my mouth water when I reminisce about it!”

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Poached Scallops with Eggplant Purée

  • Grilled Ambracian Prawns: From the renowned Ambracian Gulf, seasoned with olive oil, lemon, and oregano blossom – fresh and flavorful.

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  • Bougatsa Dessert: Crunchy phyllo filled with vanilla cream, served with cinnamon ice cream and crushed at the table – enormous yet perfectly portioned.

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Other notables: Local red prawns with scallops and avocado; marathopitta (grilled wild fennel pie); octopus on grilled bread; tarama with phyllo; spring beans; and grouper in a Bianco recipe.

Chef and Unique Aspects

Chef Periklis Koskinas, hailing from Corfu and with global experience (UK, Canaries, Venezuela, USA, Canada), has steered Cookoovaya solo for the past three years after its 2014 launch with five chefs. His philosophy: Respect for traditions, regional produce, and Greek hospitality.

Pros, Cons, and Recommendations

Pros: Exceptional ingredient quality, innovative yet simple preparations, accommodating service, cultural depth, and strong value for a Michelin spot.

Cons: None highlighted – the experience is overwhelmingly positive.

Recommendations: Opt for the Chef’s tasting menu for variety, especially with dietary requests. Pair with Greek wines from their impressive cellar. Ideal for lunch or dinner in Athens.

For more reviews, check TripAdvisor. If you’re planning a visit, book via their site.

Cookoovaya isn’t just a meal – it’s a wise celebration of Greek culinary wisdom. If Athens is on your itinerary, make it a must-visit!

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