With a three-hour drive from Johannesburg, Welgevonden’s ‘Big Five’ Tshwene Lodge is an inviting and accessible bush escape. A stay here offers an opportunity to ‘slow down’ and enjoy the rhythm of the wilderness. I spent three days embracing a slower pace in the bush and returned indeed feeling refreshed.

The welcome

After the surprisingly quick journey from Johannesburg’s OR Tambo International airport, we turned off the tar road into the entrance of Welgevonden Game Reserve. Stepping out the car, Steven walked over and introduced himself as our guide. While we waited for the other two guests to arrive, we eagerly indulged in the welcome snacks and drinks that have been laid out. From the gate, it was a further 30-minute drive to the Lodge, with a host of animal sightings en route – a small teaser of what awaited in the coming days, as well as a gentle way to begin disconnecting from the outside world. When we finally pass through Tswhene’s entrance, a welcoming party comprising the butler, chef, and lodge manager enthusiastically waved us in, offering warm towels and refreshing drinks.

The room

We followed the stone path through the bush until reaching the standalone suite. Upon entering, I was immediately greeted by the scent of exposed thatch ceiling above – an enduring aroma I’ll always associate with game lodges in South Africa. The bed in the spacious room is perfectly positioned to enjoy the views – enhanced by the floor-to-ceiling glass windows. With the sliding doors open, there’s access to a veranda where you can sit and absorb the sights, scents, and sounds of the reserve. The elevated position of each suite creates a distinct treetop feeling – and allows for wildlife spotting from the comfort of your room.

The bathroom

The bedroom leads to the back of the suite, where the spacious bathroom is located. Double vanity mirrors and sinks are complemented by a shower and bathtub. South Africa’s beloved Healing Earth amenities are used throughout – including one of my favourites, the Lemon Verbena and Argan Oil foam bath. Stepping through the shower door, one can enjoy a wash in the wild, as a private courtyard houses an outdoor shower. With hot water and privacy, it’s a wonderful way to cleanse after a game drive, especially in the evenings, when tilting your head back reveals a thousand sparkling stars.

The facilities

Safari life revolves around morning and afternoon game drives. Welgevonden is a Big Five reserve, teeming with wildlife, birdlife, and flora. Steven and Gerhart expertly led us through the reserve – a favourite of mine because of its varied topography. The Waterberg mountain range slopes into bush-covered ridges, golden-grassed plains, and perennial waterways. It’s a landscape full of surprises.

Back at the lodge, several communal spaces encourage relaxation after safari. The central lounge features couches with wildlife-related reading material, plus a bar and indoor dining area. Glass doors open onto the deck where meals are served al fresco, and a pool with loungers offers bush vistas. A TV lounge provides an escape for those wanting to watch an episode of their favourite series or a sports game on the big screen.

Finally, the spa enhances the relaxation experience – a dedicated room overlooking the surrounding bush. Several treatments are available, including the use of the egg-shaped natural stone bath – reminiscent of the renowned tubs at Tshwene’s sister property, The Outpost in Kruger. These beautiful spaces prompted me to forgo two game drives, choosing to relax in the tranquillity of the bush: enjoying a leisurely bath, reading on the deck, and finishing with a cocktail at the pool.

The location

Welgevonden Game Reserve is situated in Limpopo, the province north of Gauteng in South Africa. It’s a three-hour drive from OR Tambo International Airport in Johannesburg, and thirty minutes less from Pretoria – half the travel time compared to the Kruger National Park. Located on a plateau, it remains cooler in summer than Kruger. The malaria-free reserve covers 37,000 hectares of diverse landscapes – a sizeable wilderness area accessible only to lodge guests, with no day visitors allowed. There are also direct flights from Johannesburg to the reserve itself, launching in December 2025. Flights will depart on Mondays, Wednesdays and Fridays, and take only 45 minutes, bookable directly with Tshwene Lodge.

Other lovely touches

Tshwene falls under the hospitality group Rare Earth Retreats, which curates a collection of remarkable properties across South Africa. One such property is a wine estate near Plettenberg Bay on the famous Garden Route. Many still do not realise that world-class wines are produced in this region, not just in the well-known Western Cape Winelands. During all-inclusive stays at the lodge, guests can sample these delicious wines – perhaps even booking a future trip to the estate.

In the central lounge, I noticed a ‘Sightings Book’ at a secluded desk. I sat down and realised guests are encouraged to share their sightings and experiences. A novel idea I hadn’t encountered before; I felt like I went on a mini-safari as I read through the stories – even adding our own.

Tshwene as recently had a rather smart refurbishment, with new decking, a recoated pool, and some new furniture in the common areas and suites – all complementing the elegant, yet understated décor that ultimately, allows the connection to nature to be the hero feature. Lastly, without wanting to spoil too much of the surprise, every few evenings guests are invited for an intimate fire-side dining experience in the dedicated boma area – a treat of note!

The cost

The standard rate for a stay at Tshwene is around £350 per person sharing, and as an all-inclusive offering, it incorporates:  two guided game drives with sundowners and snacks, all meals, all beverages (excluding premium brands), and the transfer to the lodge from the Welgevonden Main Gate or airstrip. Throughout the year, the stay-four-pay-three deal applies, along with last-minute booking specials which start at £190 per person sharing.

The best part

With no shortage of lodges in South Africa, it’s easy to feel like just another guest – especially in larger lodges. This is perhaps Tshwene’s advantage – with only five freestanding suites, it offers a very intimate stay, which is why it’s so popular as a romantic getaway for couples. With numerous communal spaces, there’s never a sense of intruding on others – rather, an invitation to enjoy the luxury of spaciousness. This also means more personable service: our butler quickly recognised my favourite wine, and I felt comfortable enough to lean through the kitchen window to chat with the chef (cheekily asking for his chicken curry recipe).

The final verdict

When a nature trip calls, Tshwene might just be the answer needed. With the close proximity to Johannesburg, it’s an accessible stay that is enjoyed by both locals and foreign visitors alike. And if like us, you’ll hopefully be lucky enough to have scooped up all the Big Five sightings on your first day.

Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Tschwene Lodge.

Africa offers a diverse and exciting array of safari experiences and at Umlingo we know that for wildlife photography lovers, her best-kept secrets secrets lie hidden in some of the wildlife reserves that offer dedicated photographic hides.

A hide is a concealed, purpose-built structure that allows photographers as well as nature enthusiasts to discreetly observe and photograph wildlife in their natural habitat, up-close-and-personal. These hides are always strategically placed near waterholes, salt licks or other areas frequented by animals, ensuring excellent wildlife traffic.

Designed to blend seamlessly into their environment, hides prevent the animals from being disturbed, allowing for more natural behaviour to be observed and photographed than you would get from a game drive vehicle or on foot. Many are positioned at water level or are made from robust shipping containers sunk into the ground, providing unique angles for dramatic and intimate shots and reflections of wildlife and birds.

Some of these hides can be very make-shift or rustic, but there are some really high-quality hides emerging which offer comfortable seating, adjustable windows, and equipment like camera mounts, charging points and editing software for extended sessions. There are even a handful where you can stay overnight.

Most hides are also designed to maximize natural light and offer various perspectives, from wide landscapes to close-ups, but some, such as the new Lala Limpopo overnight hide at Mashatu Game Reserve, even have adjustable back and side lighting.

Some hides are tailored for specific wildlife, such as bird reflection hides with still water for mirrored images or overnight hides for nocturnal predators such as wild dogs, hyenas, genets, civets, honey badgers and jackals. They also provide a secure environment for observing large or dangerous animals like elephants, lions and leopards while offering unique vantage points, lighting conditions, and uninterrupted wildlife action.

Photo hides are not just for professional photographers though. Any wildlife lover will be awestruck by the proximity and raw beauty of the wild. Mashatu introduced Family Hour in their Matebole Elephant Hide in 2024, where youngsters can try their hand at fun things like recording timelapses on their mobile phones. You actually don’t even need to take a camera – and opt to rather just be present in the moment.

Here are some of Africa’s hottest hides and hotspots, perfect for both amateur and professional photographers as well as anyone wanting an unforgettable game encounter:

Matebole Hide at Mashatu Game Reserve, Botswana

The underground Matebole Hide at Mashatu is a dream location for photographing elephants and other wildlife. Created from a sturdy shipping container in 2012, it has since become a renowned hotspot for photographers, with C4 / PhotoMashatu offering expert guidance. Many award winning photos have been taken here including Greg du Toit’s Essence of Elephants, which won him the acclaimed “Wildlife Photographer of the Year” award in 2013.

The hide comfortably accommodates up to eight photographers, allowing them to lay out their lenses and capture the classic scenes of Mashatu as they unfold before them. Mashatu offers a “family hour” between sessions so that families with younger children can also get a taste of the Mashatu magic.

Lala Limpopo Overnight Hide at Mashatu, Botswana

Mashatu’s Lala Limpopo overnight hide is a bucket list experience for photographers wanting a very exclusive, immersive nocturnal experience. With innovative adjustable lighting and two comfortable bedrooms to lala (sleep) in – up to 4 guests can now capture incredible images from dusk till dawn. With windows at ground level, you can observe elephants and other nocturnal wildlife drinking some 3 meters away. Nighttime sensors around the waterhole alert you to animal presence, ensuring you never miss an opportunity. There is also a kitchen, lounge, bathroom, courtyard and photographic area, as well as a room for your PhotoMashatu guide. The experience is offered between March and December only as it closes for the rainy season.

Onkolo Hide at Onguma Nature Reserve, Namibia

Situated on the eastern fringe of Etosha National Park, Onguma’s Onkolo Hide offers stunning views and creative angles at water level. It’s an ideal spot for capturing diverse wildlife and birdlife in beautiful light. It also offers ablution facilities and is best enjoyed with a guide. Many award-winning photos have been captured in this hide.

There is also another gorgeous water level hide located at Onguma Camp Kala which guests can access at any time, just below the lounge deck, overlooking the watering hole. With only 4 suites in the whole camp, Camp Kala’s hide is undoubtedly one of the most exclusive photo hides you will find anywhere!

Mahlasela Hide at Tembe Elephant Park, South Africa

Tembe Elephant Park in northern KwaZulu-Natal is mostly known for its large indigenous bull elephants with their huge tusks, but its Mahlasela hide is also a prime location for spotting all of the Big Five as they gather around the waterhole.

The live ellie-cam, hosted by Africam, based at Mahlasela, has been in operation for well over two decades and has won over loyal followers from around the globe, many of whom dream of visiting in person, and often do!

This hide has also recently been updated to be fully accessible with a new lower- level viewing area and a wheelchair friendly toilet on the hidden access pathway – right in the middle of the bush! Not everyone enjoys a tree-wee!

Other wildlife viewing spots – from spectacular salt licks and dreamy decks, to busy birdbaths and rocky
outcrops – include:

Mara Bushtops salt lick in the Masai Mara, Kenya

Overlooking a busy salt lick, Mara Bushtops blends absolute luxury with incredible wildlife viewing. Guests can observe all the wildlife action from the comfort of this award-winning camp, with its enviable view over a busy salt lick which attracts wildlife from miles around in search of the minerals needed for healthy bones. There is no need to “hide” here … you can view all the wildlife activity from either their acclaimed spa, the restaurant, terrace or even your private tented suite. A live webcam offers a window to the wild for viewers around the globe, as gazelle jostle with warthogs, zebra and impala, topi and buffalo. Herds of elephant can be joined by up to 40 giraffes at a time – and even spot leopards and lions. The Maasai also come down each evening to build a traditional fire at dusk and enjoy a sundowner with your fellow wildlife enthusiasts.

Mosetlha bird bath safari at Madikwe, South Africa

It may not be an official hide, but the humble bird bath on the peripheral border of Mosetlha Bush Camp and Eco Lodge, right in the heart of Madikwe Game Reserve, sees almost as much action as an Attenborough documentary.

Between game drives there’s also no better place to sit than in the lapa or on the deck to see which local residents will visit. Regulars include lions, buffalo, warthogs, jackals, hyenas, zebras, baboons, wildebeest and even the rhinos. And of course, the most incredible array of birds, for whom the bath is intended! At Mosetlha, the magic comes right to you!

There is also a fabulous new viewing deck on the edge of camp overlooking a busy wildlife pathway for whiling away the hours between game drives with Jonny and Justice, or relaxing with a sundowner.

One to watch… Warangi Ridge

The 1st July will see a brand-new safari lodge opening in the central Serengeti called Warangi Ridge Lodge by The Wilderness Collection, which will offer front row seats to the legendary wildebeest migration. Perched on a stunning granite cliff, it will offer breathtaking views over the Serengeti’s iconic savanna, grasslands and kopjes. Located in a restricted “rangers only” TANAPA Research Area of the park, with no neighbours within a 12 km radius, this exclusive wilderness is set to be an exciting new wildlife watching hotspot, be it from your private pool, bathtub or the main lodge.

Whether you’re aiming for award-winning shots or simply to immerse yourself in nature, Africa’s hides offer unparalleled and unforgettable wildlife encounters.