Welcome to Tomato Week, Bon Appétit’s high-summer celebration of our all-time favorite fruit. Fill your totes with heirlooms and pack your pockets with Sun Golds: Each day, we’re sharing a brand new, extra-delicious way to make the most of this fleeting season.

While we’d never say no to an herby chimichurri or salsa verde, nothing packs the same umami punch as a sauce made from cooked-down tomatoes. Their sweet-tart-savory qualities become deeper and more majestic as they reduce, like a reddening sun diving toward the horizon. Add a handful of carefully layered spices and aromatics, and you’ve got a sauce that transforms a platter of steak into a summer fireworks display. Double up and save some in the fridge for later. Also excellent over grilled or roasted chicken or grilled eggplant.