This neighborhood guide is curated by one of our New York City-based editors who calls it home.

Travelers looking for a version of New York that is free of the tourist rush, built on community and local business, and reflective of the city’s true grit and diversity should catch the L train to Ridgewood. This leafy Queens neighborhood across the Brooklyn border from Bushwick has historically been a melting pot of Hispanic and Eastern European families; in recent years, they’ve been joined by creatives and others swapping the ever-increasing rents of Williamsburg and Greenpoint for more space at a lower cost. Of course, this group brings with them the inevitable stream of indie coffee shops, cocktail bars and vintage shopping that has come to define hipster-fying neighborhoods of the past two decades. Ridgewood shows signs of gentrification for sure, but—but!—it’s not about to become the next Williamsburg. To me, Ridgewood feels like a place that prioritizes community: the old makes space for the new, and the new respects—rather than seeks to replace—those there before.

You see it when the owners of what would be the competition are the first customers through the door to support a new business. Or when a recent restaurant makes a point to source from the local butchers and bakeries that have been here for close to a century. I know this first-hand; my partner and I moved here recently after he launched the Italian restaurant Il Gigante with a couple others on Woodward Avenue. It opened in January and graciously has been busy ever since. We know we are part of this new wave and that means supporting what came first. I do not yet have a go-to empanada shop on Seneca, or a favorite Polish deli near Fresh Pond (though I see you Hetman!). But being part of Ridgewood means it’s important for me to have defensible options for both and much more. The below reflects my personal favorites of a neighborhood as I continue to get to know it.

8 a.m. Pastry, coffee and inevitable good banter

I’m an early riser and love how quiet the early mornings are in Ridgewood, when it’s just me and a few walkers with strollers or dogs on the wide, leafy avenues. At Rudy’s Pastry Shop, you’re greeted with a scent that smells like baker’s heaven and a neighborly hello from Toni, the longtime owner who is as much an icon of the neighborhood as her 92 year old bakery. For my son I’ll get a donut the size of his face while I debate if it’s too early to fill a cannoli shell with ricotta cream for myself (regrettably, the answer is always yes). If I’m after anything savory, I’ll walk a couple blocks to Bakeri, the Greenpoint import that hums with families grabbing cookies and friends catching up over coffee all morning long in the hopes that this morning, they’ve put out their utterly (utterly!) irresistible kale and cheese pinwheels. But this comes with a detour to Cholita, a new-wave, minimalist Ecuadorian coffee house whose flat whites compete with those I was raised on back in Wellington New Zealand, birthplace of the famous espresso drink.

12p.m. Walk Woodward

Woodward Avenue in central Ridgewood is quietly growing a tidy row of indie boutiques. Start at the light-flooded Saint Seneca, where the lovely Yuka curates the gorgeous space with her exceptional taste, meaning beautiful throws, hand-carved wood platters, plants, candles, and other household items to turn your home into a page out of Domino. Each time I pop in I’m convinced that I do, indeed, need another hand-shaped ceramic ladle holder. Stay Forever has quirky gifts and fun buys—I drink my coffee from their oversized Ridgewood-branded mug each morning—but I really love their kids shop across the way, Forever Young, which has a smart selection of kids dress-up, books, toys and clothes. And it always comes through with a last-minute gift as you dash to the bday party. Left Field is an homage to quality, handmade denim and more, that has been operating under the radar for years. Close by, Fringe Records is small and unassuming behind an easy-to-miss door, but jam-packed with excellent vinyl.

2 p.m Grab a sandwich

The humble sandwich is having a show-stealing revival around the neighborhood and I am here for it. At Arrigo’s, a pocket-sized Italian diner and deli on Fresh Pond, the Italian sub is a masterpiece of fresh sliced prosciutto and mortadella with the right amount of tangy oils and fillings. It has pleased even the most persnickety of judges —my very Italian-American father. I love the classic ham and cheese at the Salty Lunch Lady, a retro-fitted lunch counter with a delicious menu of made-to-order sandos and a nice amount of seating for a solid destination lunch when working from home. But I have to say, nothing compares to the utter perfection that is the deli-counter sandwiches at Pierogi Boys, a new arrival to Ridgewood which combines a restaurant and market place and is worth a visit for its sheer delightful selection of high end provisions alone. Their turkey with dill mayo, served on ciabatta fluffier than cotton, was one of the single most delightful dishes I have had all year. Honestly.

3 p.m. Vintage shopping

The second-hand shopping is so good in Ridgewood that out of towners could make a day of bopping around for rare denim and estate jewels. The most known spot may be Other People’s Clothes, the Ridgewood outlet of the famed Williamsburg spot started by Beacon’s Closet alums. It’s well stocked, the kind of place that takes energy to rifle through, so you gotta be in the mood. A few blocks up, Etta Vintage is a charming boutique where the owner hits up estate sales across the tristate and brings the best of it back with her. The jewelry and funky wall hangings are some of my favorites of her finds. Lichen, over on Woodward, is a high-style furniture showroom run by a collective of carpenters and designers who repurpose signature pieces. I aspire to one day have one of the Rei Kawakubo coffee tables in my own home but for now I am a dedicated window shopper. Grace Land, just down a ways, sells unique pieces like sturdy jackets and asymmetrical blouses fashioned from vintage finds with master tailoring

5 p.m. Cocktail hour

Get to Peg’s Cavalier, a neighborhood favorite, right as it opens to snag space at the bar or one of the cozy tables. It gets busier later on but I like when you can banter with the bartender, easily order another round and maybe bump into your neighbor at a nearby table. The Seneca has a nice big space and a perfectly acceptable bar food menu if you get peckish, while Aunt Ginny’s is a little more laid back but still does a mean martini.

7 p.m. Reservations essential

Rolo’s put Ridgewood on the culinary map when it was opened by a bunch of Gramercy Tavern alums who wanted a neighborhood bistro where they lived. The irony is that their polenta bread and burger are so phenomenal, locals compete with straphangers for a spot (if there is a two hour wait for a table, try the bar). I am partial, of course, to the gramigna at Il Gigante and don’t mind committing Italian sacrilege by pairing it with one of their perfect Negronis instead of a wine, but I also love the prosciutto and salads at nearby pizzeria Panina, and the delicious Palmetto pie and chopped salad at Decades, a funky pizzeria across from Rosemary’s Playground. During warmer months, the aptly named Ice Cream Window just down the block serves scoops of inventive flavors like pumpkin-inflected Styrian and Rose well into dessert time. I haven’t made it into Pierogi Boys yet for dinner but definitely have my eye on their tomahawk-sized schnitzel and dill pickle martinis.

10 p.m. There is life at night

I am no longer cool enough nor young enough to have boogied till dawn at Nowadays, one of the many fine nightclubs to have spilled over from the scene in nearby Bushwick, but eavesdropping on the hungover 20-somethings every weekend confirms it’s great. Cassette is more my speed these days. I will do a post-dinner negroni or martini; they have a small downstairs club that opens late, too. Gottscheer Hall, a nostalgia-riddled beer hall and vestige to the neighborhood’s Germanic roots does Honky Tonk night once a month which is always wild (and often sells out, so plan ahead!). I am yet to check out Low Cinema, the neighborhood’s first indie moviehouse in decades, but plan to do so once I’m craving something quiet that isn’t my couch.

12 a.m. One for the road

As much as I love the fancier spots for a pricier cocktail, all roads will eventually lead me back to a good ol’ dive bar. Here, that’s Jones Bar, a proper divey watering hole with cheap draught beer, shot specials, and grungy locals who often don’t mind if you, say, want to bring your toddler in during happy hours (thanks again!). Of course the best time to be here is later at night. It’s on a quieter stretch of the neighborhood and just a few blocks from my front door, so it’s easy to justify stopping in for just the one whenever I head home.

This neighborhood guide is curated by one of our New York City-based editors who calls it home.

I have long said that out-of-towners looking to explore the outer boroughs should head to Carroll Gardens. This, according to me, is the real Brooklyn: soulful with its old architecture; neighborhood-y and community-oriented; historical yet relevant. The streets are lined with protected Brownstones and shady trees; in winter, the same streets are dusted with snow, which creates a whole different type of charm. The two main commercial streets, Smith Street and Court Street are packed with designer restaurants and old-time bars, with high-end retail and vintage stores. They hum with life around the clock, with friends sipping coffee at outdoor cafes, families lining up for exceptional pizza, and twenty-somethings bar hopping late night. The neighborhood is just 20 minutes from downtown Manhattan which, combined with its dining and bar scene that would compete with any in the city, make it a popular weekend destination with New Yorkers who live elsewhere. It’s even reachable after walking the Brooklyn Bridge—just carry on farther down Jay Street (I did this as part of my commute to the city for years).

Though it may now have a reputation as one of the city’s glitzier zip codes alongside its neighbor Cobble Hill (yes, some of the below will technically be on the CH side of the area, but it all blends together…), its old-school roots are what always capture my heart. Before it became the West Village of Brooklyn, Carroll Gardens was an Italian stronghold. Today, century-old delis and bakeries where old timers still swap stories in their Sicilian dialect hold their own amongst the newer openings like Rachel Comey. Like the best of New York, Carroll Gardens doesn’t forget its origins. It just learns to make space for what comes next.

7:30 a.m. Walk and coffee on the go

I am an early riser and I love to get up before the neighborhood has started to stir and walk the leafy boulevards of Union, Clinton, and Henry streets. There are plenty of places to pop into for excellent coffee including Poppy’s on Degraw Street, which has phenomenal cakes and Hungry Ghost, where I often treat myself to a King David Breakfast Taco. But my go-to, especially this early, is Food You Desire, the local bodega on the corner of Union and Smith where the drip coffee is the perfect New York cup and Ismael and the guys know your name, remember your order and may even gift you a lovely package of toys and clothes when, say, a baby is born (as they did when I had both my son and daughter). I know we say it’s impossible to identify the best bodega in New York but, I think I have here.

9.30 a.m. Pancakes for breakfast

I love an old-school diner and none is more classic than Cobble Hill Coffee Shop, a salt-of-the-earth all-day spot on Court. If we make it to the playground early, my kids and I will stop in here before the morning rush for pancakes smothered in syrup and butter, breakfast burritos the size of an eggplant and again, more of that great strong black coffee. Oh, and they do excellent cheeseburgers later in the day. It’s a refreshing no-frills, honest spot in an area increasingly dominated by the newer and the pricier. If wanting the best BLT of your life, snag a table at eastern-Mediterranean coffee shop Nili, back over on Smith.

11 a.m. Pick up some specialties to bring home

I sometimes pop into Caputo’s Fine Foods, an old Italian deli at the end of Court Street, just to admire its selection of olives from the old country and for the friendly banter across the counter between the loyal customers and the veteran shopkeepers. On grocery days, I will bring home packages of freshly sliced San Daniele prosciutto, bundles of fresh stuffed cheese ravioli, hunks of aged parmesan, and little plastic containers of bocconcini. It’s also the perfect spot to pick up everything you need for an at-home aperitivo spread if having friends over. If that’s the plan I will also swing past Mazzola’s to pick up a loaf of their famous lard bread which is baked there every day early in the morning, and then Smith and Vine which has an excellent selection of organic and global wines. My go-to is a Grüner and Barbera.

1 p.m. Get a bite

For lunch, it’s tough to beat Court Street Grocers for their creative menus and mountain-high sandwiches. I am a traditionalist and love the ham and cheese but when feeling adventurous I’ll do the broccoli reuben (who knew the staple green vegetable could make you forget all about the magic that is pastrami) or the salmon with potato chips which is as delicious and satisfying as it sounds. Pro tip: If the wait is just too long, walk a block up to F+F Pizzeria’s slice window. You will never regret a slice of their Partanna, expertly finished with chili and red onion. And this may be controversial, but yes, it is much better than the square slices you get at Baby Luc’s up the street (no offence, Lucali).

3 p.m. Books, dresses, and possibly a vintage double boiler?

In the afternoons I stroll the area and shop. Books are Magic is a fun and seriously well-curated book store from author Emma Straub, that hosts readings, signings, and more. I’ll explore the resell items and funky original dresses, cardigans, and more at the bright and beautiful Rue St Paul, who brilliantly let you rent the items before full purchase which works wonderfully for indecisive shoppers like myself. And I can’t help but enjoy a good ol’ fashion peruse of the old signage, tableware, and more at Yesterday’s News, which is packed to the gills with just about any household item you could think to resell. Need some antique clothing pegs for the kids’ room? This is the spot.

4 p.m. Snack time

Four words: Rose cinnamon ice cream. This is my favorite (and I think the top-selling) flavor from Malai, the artisanal ice cream shop on Smith Street that fuses South Asian flavors into deliciously refreshing creamy treats. There are a few seats inside, or you can take the cup with you as you walk the block.

5 p.m. Whet the whistle

In the summer months, this has to be an icy cold beer at Gowanus Yacht Club, the outdoor pop-up bar that is a neighborhood fixture and whose arrival signals the official start to summer. It’s lively and laid-back, with a selection of cold beers and cocktails and if you’re lucky, hot dogs or burgers if they feel like serving food. In winter, however, my first love is Black Mountain Wine House, found on Hoyt and Union Street. The space is cozy and really inviting—lots of deep sitting chairs, a large bar, and a roaring fire place. Plus, the wine list is excellent. But definitely go here hungry. The food menu is masterfully created on a hot plate, and the mac and cheese with Gruyèrere and truffle and European-style house panini are a masterclass in bar food.

7 p.m. Dig in

There is a section of Smith Street that has become known as Restaurant Row. It has a wonderful selection of places to eat and drink from cocktail bars like Barely Disfigured to low-key Mexican like Pure Pecha. But I can never resist dinner at Frankie Spuntino’s. This restaurant opened over a decade ago and put the-then sleepy neighborhood on the map. Since then the restaurant has only gotten better. I dream of its sausage cavatelli. The dining room is heavy on woods, with a big, inviting bar. It is the type of hospitable space where you settle in, order the extra dessert, have another bottle of wine, and really make a night of it. Also, its outdoor garden may be the chicest backyard dining room in all of Brooklyn, and that is saying something. In a neighborhood increasingly filled with destination restaurants, Frankie’s continues to be the best. It may honestly be my favorite restaurant in the whole city for its mix of excellent food, hospitable spaces, and atmosphere.

9 p.m. The after (or before) dinner drink

Okay, I time-stamped this 9 p.m. But it could have been 5 p.m., 7 p.m., 11 p.m. Brooklyn Social is the perfect cocktail spot for this neighborhood. It is inside a former Italian social club and photos of that era hang on its walls; the corner table by the door was where the mafia boss used to sit while conducting meetings, so as to watch the comings and goings but also, crucially, never leave his back exposed to danger. The place does on-point martinis and negronis and has a petite backyard for drinks al fresco on warmer nights.

11 p.m. Night cap

More and more fancy cocktail bars may be moving in to the hood, but when I want one more for the road, I head to Boat. The original (and largely, last remaining) dive bar of the neighborhood remains unapologetically gritty. They prefer cash, the lights are low, and up until recently, a pool table knocked around the back of the bar. Stop in for a beer, a shot, and if you are lucky, maybe some whacky neighborhood gossip from the regulars perched at all hours on its long bar.