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Saturday, April 13, 2024

Good & Black: Sotheby’s celebrates Black jewelers.


One thing extraordinarily cool is going on within the jewellery world proper now: an all-new exhibition at Sotheby’s that’s solely devoted to celebrating the work of Black jewelers.

Good & Black: A Jewellery Renaissance opened at Sotheby’s New York on September seventeenth and can run by way of September twenty sixth. Co-curated by jewellery author and stylist, Melanie Grant (who’s a implausible IG observe, btw) and Sotheby’s Sale Director of Jewellery, Frank Everett, the exhibition showcases custom-made creations and signature designs by greater than twenty of the world’s main Black jewellery designers spanning a variety of intervals and types from the Fifties to the current day and each piece is on the market.

Sotheby's Brilliant & Black is an exhibition of work by Black jewelers. Image Courtesy of Menelik Puryear

And sure, my darlings, it’s as dazzling as you’re imagining. The vary of fashion and persona and sheer luminous magnificence is electrical. In case you’re in NYC, go see this in particular person. Will probably be superior.

I’m not going to waste your time by blathering on once I know all of us simply wish to see the jewellery. I don’t have room to indicate you all 63 items by these sensible Black jewelers, however I’m going to highlight a few of my faves.

Three extraordinary rings by Maggi Simpkins for Sotheby's Brilliant & Black, an exhibition of work by Black jewelers

Maggi Simpkins is a jeweler I’ve admired for years. I discovered her by way of Instragram and all the time loved seeing her artistic, colourful rings. After I heard she was designing a number of items particularly for Sotheby’s Good & Black, I knew they might be good…however the actuality is much more unbelievable than I had imagined. She BEYOND knocked it out of the park. I imply, LOOK at these rings.

These rings give me chills. After I have a look at them, I really feel them within the pit of my abdomen. That is distinctive stones and visionary artistry mixed in one of the best ways. Sure, Maggi Simpkins, sure!

Necklace and emerald brooch by Castro, from Sotheby's Brilliant & Black, an exhibition of work by Black jewelers

Castro is one other celebrity Black jeweler who it’s possible you’ll already be acquainted with. If not, congratulations, since you get to see his work for the primary time and that’s a deal with. It was an actual battle deciding which of Castro’s items to indicate you as a result of they’re all SO COOL.

Born in Ohio and now based mostly in Istanbul, Castro’s work is opulent, elaborate, hanging, and all the time a revelation. Simply have a look at these two items and also you’ll see what I imply. The necklace on the left, Vintage Bisque Doll, converts right into a shorter necklace and a removable pendant – and the doll pendant is sporting a detachable masks.

Earrings and pendant by Castro, from Sotheby's Brilliant & Black, an exhibition of work by Black jewelers

I used to be making an attempt to not go too in-depth on any specific artist on this put up, however I needed to provide you with a more in-depth have a look at the pendant from the Bisque Doll necklace. On the left is Castro’s different lot within the sale, a pair of earrings. Every design is price looking at for hours. They virtually have a Renaissance jewellery vibe, don’t you assume? What an extremely gifted artist.

Brass necklace by Art Smith Sotheby's Brilliant & Black, an exhibition of work by Black jewelers

Artwork Smith is a full on jewellery icon/legend. An avid supporter of dance who was identified for his help of homosexual and Black civil rights, Smith is taken into account one of many main trendy jewelers of the mid-century. Not solely did he open his personal store within the 1946’s, however Smith’s work bought in department shops within the 1950’s and has been repeatedly featured in Vogue, and exhibited on the Brooklyn Museum and Cooper Hewitt.

My eyes love to bop throughout the whorls of this Artwork Smith necklace – my gaze is pulled up and down and throughout. I can’t resist it.

Deisgns by ALMASIKA from Sotheby's Brilliant & Black, an exhibition of work by Black jewelers

Almasika by Parisian-born Catherine Sarr is a model I already know and love. Completely stylish and luscious, the designer’s work is closely impressed by significant symbolism just like the cowrie shell that kinds the constructing block of those attractive black rhodium and diamond earrings earrings. The cuff and the opposite pair of earrings are buttery 18K yellow gold with tsavorite garnets.

That ridged gold simply appears to be like so satisfying to the touch, doesn’t it? I wish to pet that cuff bracelet.

The Heroine's Necklace by Sheryl Jones, with asscher cut peridot, pink sapphires, rubies, tourmalines, kunzites, and diamonds.

Sheryl Jones is a jeweler with a background within the leisure business and her expertise within the performing arts has change into a powerful affect in her jewellery designs. Her jewels communicate for themselves – have a look at this extraordinary use of coloration! I really like a necklace that makes use of shocking coloured gems and this combo of asscher reduce peridot, pink sapphires, rubies, tourmalines, kunzites, and diamonds. It’s known as “The Heroine’s Necklace” which is a reputation I completely love.

This necklace seems to be convertible as properly; the itemizing exhibits it with and with out the pendant in addition to the pendant alone. You’ll be able to see this piece modeled in one of many editorial pictures on the finish of this put up.

Diamond jewels by Thelma West for Sotheby's Brilliant & Black, an exhibition of work by Black jewelers.

In case you’ve seen Thelma West’s Insurgent Black ring not too long ago, it might be as a result of Rihanna rocked it on the Met Gala crimson carpet final week. There aren’t many fancier methods for a chunk of knickknack to be seen.

Because the pictures clarify, West’s jewellery is daring, badass, and impossibly cool. Glossy strains and graphic slashes of blackened gold and black ceramic showcasing dynamic diamonds make each an unforgettable head-turner. Have a look at the prongs that maintain the diamond within the ring – prongs are sometimes an afterthought, merely a structural necessity, however these prongs are absolutely a part of the design. Prime notch glamour with a twist. I find it irresistible.

Jacqueline Rabun's Black Love Collection, with rutilated crystal in gold.  In Sotheby's Brilliant & Black, an exhibition of work by Black jewelers

Jacqueline Rabun’s items within the Good & Black exhibition use certainly one of my favourite supplies: rutilated quartz. These lovely, thread-like strains are the rutile inclusions and what makes this stone so cool. This assortment is named Black Love and is a good instance of Rauben’s natural, architecturally influenced fashion.

Jewels by Harwell Godfrey in Sotheby's Brilliant & Black, an exhibition of work by Black jewelers.

Harwell Godfrey is one other well-known modern Black jeweler whose work I’m all the time delighted to see. Her designs are daring and joyful, with vivid colours and a heat, splendidly welcoming vibe. Her work is impressed by the 4 components, block printing, and weaving.

Godfrey is understood for her philanthropy, and up to now few years she has created charity coronary heart pendants with 100% of the proceeds going to the NAACP, No Hungry Child, World Central Kitchen and Human Rights Marketing campaign. Harwell Godfrey additionally helped set up the Artwork Smith Memorial Scholarship Fund to help Black college students concentrating in jewellery on the Trend Institute of Expertise in NYC.

Mother of pearl earrings by Tenthousandthings, from Sotheby's Brilliant & Black, an exhibition of work by Black jewelers

Oh, these earrings! Their quiet magnificence and sense of peace is so highly effective. They’re by Tenthousandthings, a model with an NYC storefront that’s designed by Ron Anderson and David Rees. The gathering is sculptural, natural, and concurrently daring and serene, with a knack for surprising summary shapes and bewitching pure gems.

These earrings are simply such a knockout. Such a particular, eye-catching impartial. I really like the concept of those as an on a regular basis assertion piece.

Sotheby's Brilliant & Black is an exhibition of work by Black jewelers. Image Courtesy of Menelik Puryear.

There’s a lot extra to like in Good & Black: A Jewellery Renaissance! Click on by way of right here to see each single piece on Sotheby’s web site. The web catalogue additionally has mini-bios about each single designer, so it’s price a search for a number of causes.

I really like the Sotheby’s is doing an exhibition to have a good time Black jewelers and the curation is spectacular – actually a pleasure to behold, even simply over the web. Bear in mind, this unbelievable exhibition of Black Jewelers’ work solely lasts by way of September twenty sixth, so don’t sleep on it.

Need to see extra public sale posts? Go to my Public sale archive right here.

All pictures and information c/o Sotheby’s, editorial pictures c/o Menelik Puryear.

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