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Monday, April 22, 2024

Introducing The Angelus Instrument de Vitesse Monopusher Chronograph


Angelus initiated its La Fabrique collection last year, with the idea to revive heritage pieces and pay homage to iconic designs (and we know that Angelus has a lot of them…) The journey began with the launch of the Chronographe Médical, a purpose-built doctor’s watch inspired by a 1960s chronograph and developed in collaboration with Massena LAB. With this release, it seemed logical to anticipate further tributes to Angelus’s defining designs; we even hoped for the classic Chronodato. However, the brand had different plans. The unveiling of the new Angelus Instrument de Vitesse, a monopusher chronograph brimming with vintage charm, has diverted expectations. 

The new Angelus Instrument de Vitesse (speed instrument in English) is released in two versions, which mainly differ in the dial’s colour: ebony-black and ivory-white. The 39mm round, 30m water-resistant stainless steel case is 9.27mm thick (or should we say thin), looks perfectly proportioned, and boasts brushed and polished surfaces. The glass-box-style sapphire crystal has an anti-reflective coating on both sides, and the screw-down caseback features a sapphire crystal to admire the movement. At 3 o’clock, a fluted crown with a built-in polished pusher is one of the few hints that you are looking at a chronograph. But not with a standard chronograph movement… More in a bit.

The domed dial commands attention with its distinctive three-dimensional Arabic numerals, coated in Super-LumiNova for enhanced visibility. Positioned in a circle closer to the centre, these numerals, available in black-treated (ivory dial) or rhodium-plated (ebony dial) finishes, serve as a focal point. Surrounding them, the “base 1000” tachymeter scale traces along the outermost edge of the dial, subtly emphasizing the watch’s sporty character. Separated from the indices by the minutes ring, this feature adds another layer of functionality and visual interest to the design.

Angelus has carefully selected colours for the printed tracks, logo, and model name on the ivory dial, opting for sky blue, black, and orange hues. For the ebony dial, sand and red tones are employed. These colours create an aesthetically pleasing image and serve practical purposes, with orange and red accents marking the tachymeter scale and adorning the tip of the central seconds hand. This hand, utilized for measuring short intervals of up to 60 seconds, is activated by the crown-integrated pusher. The hour and minute hands boast the same finish as the numerals, featuring Super-LumiNova that emits a bright blue glow in low-light conditions.

The new Angelus Instrument de Vitesse is equipped with a variant of the calibre A5000, featuring a classic architecture with a column wheel and a horizontal clutch. This calibre also powers the Angelus Chronographe Médical from the inaugural La Fabrique collection – although with a small difference regarding the pusher. 

This movement is crafted by La Joux-Perret, a sister company of Angelus (both entities are owned by Citizen), and represents a modern evolution of the calibre 045MC originally designed by THA Ebauche – a company founded by François-Paul Journe, Denis Flageollet, and Vianney Halter. Interestingly, the rights to this exclusive movement were acquired by Jaquet SA, later transforming into Manufacture La Joux-Perret, establishing a historical connection. Notably, the 045MC was previously utilized in selected models such as the Cartier Tortue Monopoussoir and Tank Monopoussoir, and the De Bethune Chronograph Monopusher DB01. Enthusiasts familiar with these models will appreciate the return of the pusher to its “historical” position, positioned into the crown (it was at 2 o’clock in the Chronographe Médical).

In the Angelus Instrument de Vitesse, the manually wound A5000 maintains its 42-hour power reserve and operates at a frequency of 21,600 vibrations per hour. It receives decorations similar to the version featured in the Massena LAB collaboration. The main plate and bridges boast a palladium finish, with circular graining on the main plate and a Côtes de Genève motif on the chamfered bridges. The wheels are adorned with a gold finish and circular graining, while the screws and sinks are polished. The Angelus and A5000 texts are also gold-engraved, adding a touch of refinement to the movement’s aesthetic. Once again, seeing this superb movement manufactured again is a blessing for watch enthusiasts.

The new Angelus Instrument de Vitesse is worn on a hand-stitched caramel calfskin or midnight-blue nubuck calfskin strap, depending on the model, secured on the wrist with a steel pin buckle. The brand will make only 25 pieces of each dial variant; this exclusivity is further supported by a price of CHF 17,100 (taxes included). For more, visit angelus-watches.com.

https://monochrome-watches.com/introducing-angelus-instrument-de-vitesse-monopusher-chronograph-a5000-calibre-tha-hand-wound-specs-price/



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