Cruising north, back towards the Scandinavian lands of the midnight sun, we’re sailing from Tallinn towards the Swedish island of Gotland. Half-way through our Crystal Cruises‘ Baltic exploration of medieval cobbled alleys and contemporary eco-architecture, on seas once sailed by Vikings and then Czars, the Serenity has become more than our palatial retreat, it has become our home.

Even when we dock at some of Northern Europe’s most spectacular cities, guests linger over their cooked-to-order eggs, sneak in a gym session and catch up on a talk they missed on the ship’s television channel. For all the travel adrenaline of a new port-of-call, it can be hard to disembark.

Day 5: Visby, Sweden… almost

Dr Jim Rowe’s lecture had raised expectations for our day exploring Visby, on the island of Gotland. “The entire town is recognised by UNESCO. It’s beautiful,” Rowe enthused.  We were looking forward to a day of walking rose-tangled ramparts, on the 13th century walls, with views across a town of medieval beams and cobbles.

But a gusting gale and eight-feet waves, conspired to stop us from docking and the Captain declared, as most of us were breakfasting, that it would be “a sea day.” Surprisingly, with all respect to Visby, passengers seemed almost pleased. Some immediately left their waffles heading to the Aurora spa to book a treatment. Or to reception to schedule a private dance class or one-to-one tuition with the golf pro. 

Rapidly, the day’s programme developed. Lt General (retired) Mark Hartling, already scheduled to talk on Finland and Sweden joining NATO, slots in a session on “Leadership”. Whilst Dr Jane Thomason, technology lecturer, assesses how AI will impact on the jobs market, before her later lecture revealing the Metaverse .

After taking photos in Tallinn the day before, a tutorial using Adobe Firefly helps to turn grey skies blue and remove parked vehicles from images.

Our dinner is booked at Umi Uma, chef Nobu Matsuhisa’s collaboration with Crystal. The Japanese / Peruvian fusion eatery took the award of “Best restaurant at sea” in the 2024 F&B Sea Awards. 

Four chefs working at the stage of six seater sushi bar provide culinary theatre. They are performers with glinting knives as they slice raw tuna and salmon, preparing our appetisers as if they are art. My main course of Nobu’s signature dish of black cod is legendary: globally. Buttery, flaky cod in miso sauce, charred with incendiary precision. 

As a Japanese party leave, they pause and stop at the sushi bar. Bowing their heads, like religious devotees, to the skill of the chefs.

Day 6: Riga, Latvia

We’ve opted for Crystal’s “Easy Riga” tour, a 3-hour bus tour of Latvia’s capital, interspersed with short walking tours. 

Tatiana, our guide, is immensely proud of her nation, as we drive past well-preserved Art Deco houses from Latvia’s prosperous early 20th century. She also tells us that the Latvian people are beautiful. Latvian women, on average, are taller than the women of any other nation and per capita, Latvia produces more supermodels too. 

Built in 1935, the towering Monument of Freedom was built to commemorate victory in The Latvian War of Independence (1918-1920) but during the post 1945 occupation the Soviets reinterpreted the maiden topping the tower as holding stars that represented control of the three Baltic States of Estonia, Latvia and Lithuania. 

When we hear a girl’s choir, Tatiana tells us of the power of song. In the late 1980s, Latvians knew that they could never militarily free themselves of Soviet oppression. Instead, thousands of Latvians sang for their freedom.

When the Soviets left and builders were refurbishing the Radisson Hotel they were astonished to find that the walls were filled with listening devices to spy on guests. 

Day 7: At sea

“I’ve got a busy day,” says one guest using Crystal’s daily publication of Reflections to put her day’s programme into her electronic diary: a lecture on Bitcoin, a few hands of bridge in the lounge, having her hair done in the spa, a leisurely lunchtime salad at Beefbar, an afternoon film in the Hollywood theatre, a quintessentially English sandwiches and pastries afternoon tea served in Palm Court. 

Raj, the fitness director, has a busy day ahead too: undertaking InBody scans to track key body metrics such as muscle, fat and water, then following up with personalised well-being programmes for guests.  For Raj, this is in addition to leading the daily stretching sessions and a presentation on metabolism.

As it’s “Formal Night”, with tuxedos and many a little black dress, the ship’s photographer is busy framing sharp-looking couples and families. The hottest ticket onboard, as there are only 140 seats in the intimate Stardust Club, is for a nostalgic Supper Club evening. There’s a 1960s glittery Hollywood look to guests seated at tables of four for a menu that includes caviar, artichoke veloute, lobster and chocolate mousse. Of course the seven-piece mini-orchestra, with singer, played Misty. 

Day 8: Warnemünde, Germany

Back in the days of the GDR, nicknamed the German “Dictatorial” Republic, Rostock, far from the barbed wire and machine-gun check points of Berlin, was used to welcome visitors. Some VIPs, such as Fidel Castro, stayed at the Neptun Hotel, which still dominates the Warnemünde skyline, which with all its surveillance was nicknamed the Stasi Hotel. 

After four days of heavy allied Second World War bombing of Rostock’s harbour, post war the occupying Soviets rebuilt portions of the city, in the local architectural style, but with wide avenues for military parades. 

Today the docks are largely used for leisure but one crane, close to a ground level wedding venue, has been repurposed as a wedding night hotel room. Currently, it’s fully booked for two years.

Rostock’s St Peter’s church, free from surveillance, became a central point for the organisation of the silent and peaceful protests in the late 1980s, that contributed to pressuring Soviet President Gorbachev to allow freedom of movement between East and West.

Back on board the Serenity, our final dinner booking is at the Osterio d’Ovido for a sophisticated taste of Italian cuisine; lobster as an appetiser, a traditional gnocchi pasta in a delicate mushroom ragout, duck topped with a cashew sauce and finally a dessert of coffee foam on hazelnut ice-cream. Authentic Italian flavours, immaculately sourced and beautifully presented. As ever the red and white wines poured are of a far superior quality to the house wines usually served in restaurants. 

Day 9: Copenhagen, Denmark

Some passengers stay on board for the next cruise to Oslo but most head for Copenhagen’s airport, disembarking seamlessly through Crystal’s smooth logistical operation. For those with late flights there’s an opportunity to book a tour of Copenhagen, concluding at the airport.

The cost

Crystal Cruises’ itineraries sail through the continents. The next comparable cruise will be a nine-night Southampton to Copenhagen cruise departing 27th July 2026 on Crystal Serenity. Prices start from £4500pp for a double guest room with ocean view and from £6900pp for a Sapphire Veranda Suite. These prices includes all meals and drinks, WiFi, port fees and gratuities. 

The final verdict

As we disembarked one guest revealed that she had her next 24 Crystal Cruises booked through into 2028. 

It was no surprise. Crystal provides ultra-luxurious cruising with warm intimate service, attracting well-travelled and appreciative guests.

There’s simply so much choice, for both on-shore excursions and on-board activities, that it’s inevitable that guests step ashore wanting more.

Disclosure: Our stay was sponsored by Crystal Cruises.

As we board in Stockholm, the 740 passenger Serenity, from Crystal Cruises, undoubtedly lives up to her peaceful name. Immediately, we’re relieved of our luggage and a flute of champagne helps us to flow through brief formalities. 

We are about to embark on a 8 nights cruise through the Baltic that will take in Stockholm, Helsinki, Tallinn, Visby, Warnemünde and finally Copenhagen.

Day 1: Stockholm

Even though we can board from mid-day, suites won’t be ready until 3pm, but the Trident Grill, making burgers and wraps to order, and Marketplace’s curving, extensive buffet are open for lunch. 

Chatting to fellow guests on the next table we are shocked. A third of guests from the previous voyage have stayed on board for back-to-back cruises; plus our waiter has been with Crystal for more than a dozen years. Guests and crew are incredibly loyal to Crystal.

Most guests on board are repeat Crystal cruisers and know the ropes; in the ship’s jargon, they’ve been “Crystallised”. Never will they contemplate sailing with another cruise line. Our new-found friends recommend that we head pronto to the maitre d’ to book dinner reservations at the ship’s speciality restaurants: Beefbar, Osteria d’Ovido and Umi Uma.

In 2023, the Serenity underwent a $150m refit. Guest capacity was reduced from over 1,000 to 740, giving guests more space, around 90 square feet each. More than on almost any other cruiser sailing the Seven Seas.  

That is apparent in our Sapphire Veranda Suite which had been two cabins before the refit. There’s sufficient room to comfortably take meals, delivered by our butler, at the dining table or on the veranda. 
Appropriately decor is contemporarily serene: calming greys, maritime dashes of aquamarine and flashes of art deco brass recalling the Golden Age of Ocean Liners. 

Our butler arrives looking immaculate, as if he’s stepped out of a James Bond casino movie, showing us around the all-inclusive minibar and introducing us to free laundry and pressing. He’ll also announces that daily he’ll be delivering late afternoon canopies. Butlers can also prepare in-suite cocktails …

Day 2: Stockholm

Crystal is all about choice. 

Grab-and-go coffee and pastries begins at 6 am in The Bistro if you are on your way to a morning stretch, mass or a swim in the pool heated to 30 Centigrade.

Waiter service breakfast at Waterside has many options, including healthy but seemingly indulgent Bircher muesli, maple and pecan granola, Eggs Benedict, omelettes, pancakes and the freshest of pastries. 

Or there is the informal freedom of Marketplace’s fruit-laden buffet alongside cooked-to order-eggs, hot options and a vast array of breads and pastries. Then for late-risers there’s breakfast at The Trident Grill. 

Guests can take the complimentary shuttles, running every half hour, to the Opera House at the heart of Sweden’s capital. Alternatively, guests can book private car, full day and half day tours. 

Since Abercrombie and Finch has taken the reigns, Crystal has extended the range of excursions including : Panoramic Stockholm, the Vasa Museum and Stockholm by boat, Stockholm by land and boat, a City Art Walk and for foodies a four-hour walking tour taking in the flavours of Sweden’s culinary diversity. 

As the majority of guests are out exploring Stockholm it’s a good day to head to the Aurora Spa to talk to Dr Claire, about anti-ageing treatments, “We only have one face and we have to invest in ourselves,” she persuades. 

I opt for a Swedish massage, with rosemary infused oil, to get over the stresses and strains of travelling, whilst my wife, almost overwhelmed by the range of treatments, eventually decides on a frangipani body wrap. 

Late afternoon, we sail through some of the islands and that make up the Swedish archipelago of around 30,000 islands. “This is one of the world’s most beautiful sail aways,” announces our cruise director.

Some tiny islands host just one simple but idyllic log cabin, with the Swedish flag flying above, and a rowing boat dragged onto a rock-strewn beach.

We head early into the open-seating Waterside Restaurant, to bag a window table for the continuing archipelago show.

For the second consecutive evening we take dinner, with open seating, in the waiter service Waterside Restaurant. Divided into contemporary and classical sections, the menu completely changes every evening. 

Yesterday, we had headed to the Galaxy Theatre for a big Broadway style welcome from the band, dancers and singer Annette. Tonight, we’re back to the Galaxy Theatre for James Fox’s show, “My Life, the Music of Billy Joel.”  Fox was handpicked by Joel to star in “The Piano Man “ on Broadway. The boy from Cardiff, whose parents brought him a second-hand piano when he was seven, has come a long way.

Day 3: Helsinki

During his morning lecture, cultural anthropologist Dr Jim Rowe, had told us to look out for the “Baltic Sun Salute”, as Vitamin D starved Finns catch-up on their rays after the 20 hours of darkness during a winter day. 

We hadn’t expected to see Finns heading for the beach during their lunch hours, stripping to swimwear and slathering sunblock on to their pale Arctic-white skin – as the temperature hit a balmy 16 centigrade. After all it’s only around 500 miles from Helsinki to the Arctic Circle. 

Rowe had also told us about “sisu”, the Finn’s determination to show resilience, in the face of harsh adversity. Amongst the light grey granite of Finland’s capital, neo-classical public buildings challenged by the Finnimalism of eco-friendly new builds, winter wear dominates the shops: thousands of woolly hats, heavy duty knitwear and countless pairs of socks. 

With Lapland as Santa’s second home, where hard-working elves work all year round, Santa figures on shop shelves, even in midsummer. It is revealing that for the Finn’s winter’s always coming. 

Back on board, after cocktails, after dinner, the evening entertainment is a collection of Broadway musical classics, sung by Annette, with her husband Mark on the piano, in the intimate Stardust Club. 

Day 4: Tallinn

Dr Jim had told us that Estonia, relishing its freedom, had harbour defences in place, in case of a Russian amphibious attack. Having gained their independence from the Soviet Union, with The Singing Revolution, between 1987 and 1991, the Estonians will not relinquish their independence readily. 

It seems strange that Tallinn’s old town of fairy tale spires and towers, now showing anti-Putin placards, could soon be the frontline. 

Some guests opt for the complimentary shuttle from the ship to city centre, some for private tours whilst others take the Flavours of Estonia: A Culinary Workshop.

Back on board, our evening meal is booked to enjoy sophisticated French Riviera vibes at Beefbar. Although beef is the rockstar of a show that started out in Monaco in 2005, and has gone global, the credo is now “Beef, reef and leaf”.

Street food, such as jasmine tea marinated wagyu beef in bao buns and tuna citrus ceviche are ideal sharing starters before moving onto steaks cooked to order.

A spicy Salmon Robato, served with a citrusy lemon and lime mashed potato, competes well against the steaks.

The cost

Crystal Cruises global itinerary is continually developing, and the next comparable cruise will be a nine-night Southampton to Copenhagen cruise departing 27th July 2026 on Crystal Serenity.

Prices start from £4500pp for a double guest room with ocean view and from £6900pp for a Sapphire Veranda Suite. Price includes all meals and drinks, WiFi, port fees and gratuities. 

Mid-voyage verdict

Crystal Serenity with a maximum of 740 guests has the warm feel of a boutique hotel. Guests particularly appreciate the ease of boarding and of disembarking into ports. 

A crew to passenger ratio of around 1.33 :1 not only provides excellent service, it also creates a warm ambience as staff quickly get to know the guests. 

Running out of superlatives for the food, with sourcing and presentation often approaching Michelin star levels, guests appreciate that snacks and meals are available from 6 am pastries through to gourmet midnight snacks.

Disclosure: Our trip was sponsored by Crystal Cruises

Aboard the Crystal Symphony not so long ago, our butler was fretting about matzo balls. My husband wanted a light snack, so we’d called for some room service chicken soup—hold the dumplings. But, our butler said with some concern, we’d be missing out on something “really good.”

That’s the kind of on-the-ball service you can expect when traveling with Crystal, a line renowned for its old-school service, including butlers assigned to every suite. In fact, earlier on our voyage, our suite attendant had managed to put a shine on my husband’s well-worn shoes and then, much to my delight, politely pointed out another pair also needed a polish.

In a way, we had been looking forward to the trademark service, since my husband and I honeymooned on this ship in Southeast Asia about a decade ago. Being back for a sail in the Adriatic Sea felt like coming home—albeit a home that had recently been spruced up.

That’s because the Crystal Symphony was extensively refurbished and relaunched in 2023, with a look and feel that’s both contemporary and throwback. Think cool kidney-shaped couches underneath the real, retro waterfall in the atrium lobby, for instance. The overhaul came after the luxury tour operator Abercrombie & Kent purchased the Symphony, and its sibling ship, Crystal Serenity, in 2022, after Crystal Cruises had declared bankruptcy. In doing so, A&K revived the much-loved brand and hired back more than 90 percent of the staff that helped make the line so special in the first place.

One thing that is no longer retro, thankfully, is the dress code. While there are still so-called formal nights, few on our sailing showed off the tuxes, ballgowns, and family jewels which used to be a “thing” on Crystal ships. Instead, the mostly over-60 crowd went for a more resort-y look, including a few pairs of dark jeans that would’ve been out of bounds even a few short years ago. That may be an evolution for the Symphony, but it’s one I’m happy to see.

Here’s a closer look at what makes Crystal Symphony so special, including more details on the ship’s suites, restaurants, and other amenities.

Staterooms and Suites

Most guests on the ship stay in proper suites. Ours was a 430-square-foot Sapphire Suite, with a walk-on closet, couch, dining table, an alcove with queen-size bed, and a big marble bathroom with double sinks and large shower. On the 110-square-foot balcony was a cocktail table and two chairs. The suite was so comfortable we lingered there more than we typically do while on other ships. At the high end, a 909-square-foot penthouse suite with a 107-square-foot balcony suits those with deep pockets. Of course, these premium suites also come with additional perks: while we enjoyed free laundry, along with our choice of in-room bar options, fancier suites come with all sorts of extras, including the option to have Nobu “takeout” delivered.

One recent addition to the ship are a handful of 215-square-foot ocean-view cabins, which were designed (and priced) for solo travelers.

Bars and Restaurants

There are an impressive 10 dining options on Crystal Symphony, and many of them are excellent.

At the top of the list is Umi Uma, a restaurant from acclaimed chef and restaurateur Nobu Matsuhisa that’s exclusive to Crystal ships, serving Japanese-Peruvian cuisine, sushi, and his signature miso black cod. Then there’s Osteria d’Ovidio, which is named for Manfredi Lefebvre d’Ovidio, who owns Abercrombie & Kent and, by extension, Crystal. It has the kind of pasta you dream about; my favorite was a homemade casarecce with basil pesto and aged Grana Padano. Everyone gets a complimentary meal at both venues, and guests can pay an additional fee for repeat visits. Many do.

But meals in the main Waterside restaurant are perhaps just as extraordinary. I found myself choosing between Alaskan crab legs, Beef Wellington, and roast pheasant. After my cruise, the ship turned its casual sit-down restaurant into a Beefbar, featuring bao buns and other global street food from the buzzy restaurant brand. The poolside Trident Grill serves tasty burgers at lunch and the Marketplace buffet impressed me by featuring local cuisine, including a full Greek buffet as we docked in Crete.

Many drinks and wines are included on Crystal, but there is one over-the-top experience, The Vintage Room, that comes at an extra charge. This intimate dinner party–style venue is where sommeliers show off the ship’s cellar—at prices that can reach four figures.

Afternoon tea is also an occasion, served as it is by tuxedo-clad waiters, with scones and real clotted cream served on bone china in the skylit Palm Court observation lounge.

Where Crystal Symphony Sails

The ship will spend summer and the early fall of 2025 in Europe, including the western Mediterranean and the Greek Isles before heading to Africa and the Indian Ocean in late November. It will continue to Asia in February 2026, offering springtime sailings in Japan. Crystal Symphony will be in Alaska in the summer of 2026 before moving onward to Canada, New England, and the Caribbean.

Shore Excursions

Crystal’s excursions have gotten a boost thanks to the expertise of Abercrombie & Kent. In addition to city walks and bus tours, the line offers more intensive cultural tours and adventure activities. On my cruise, guests had the option of doing a walking tour of medieval Kotor, Montenegro—or they could opt for a via ferrata climbing experience on a mountainside track. On a delightful “Secrets of Greek Cuisine” tour in Corfu, about 20 passengers learned to make tzatziki and moussaka at a hillside villa, the lively commentator suggesting using leftover cucumber peels as a beauty treatment while placing strips on her face.

Amenities and Entertainment

There’s something to do on the Symphony from morning to the wee hours, and that’s a point of pride for Crystal: learn the cha-cha with ballroom dancers; video editing from instructors at the line’s Computer University@Sea; get tips for taking better iPhone photos; take up pickleball on the ship’s dedicated court; catch an enrichment lecture by, in our case, a White House correspondent who covered President Ford. My husband loved getting swing tips from a golf instructor; the ship has TaylorMade clubs to rent for play in port.

On my sailing, it was a tad chilly for the pool, though some still grabbed blankets and populated the cushy orange lounge chairs and hot tub. I preferred the spa, with complimentary steam and sauna; treatments at extra cost included hot stone massage or a cryofacial. The 3,000-square-foot gym has lots of wellness diversions plus windows for views; fitness classes include yoga, Pilates, and spinning.

The entertainment team is large for a ship of this size and includes, in the main lounge, a big team of singers and dancers performing Broadway showtunes—and my sailing we had on our sailing both Michael Jackson and Elton John impersonators, as well as comedians and other cabaret acts. There’s a resident big band that sets the tempo for dancing—there are even gentlemen hosts available for ladies—and a DJ rocks the small disco late into the night. Many guests get excited for the White Party, during which everyone is encouraged to dress in white, the champagne flows, and the atmosphere is very lively.

There’s also a fun, pub-like piano bar and a Connoisseur Club for cigars and cognac. A new gaming room is the first venture of the Casino de Monte-Carlo at sea, and it has both slots and table play. For more sedate vibes, there’s a library with around 2,000 titles.

Family-friendly Options

Crystal Symphony attracts some multi-generational families with children, particularly during holiday periods. A designated, brightly furnished, staffed space is divided into a lounge area for teens and play area for younger kids. Board games, Xbox, movie nights, and crafts sessions keep youngsters occupied. Kids will also enjoy Scoops, the ship’s complimentary ice cream shop. (There are 39 connecting cabins, so parents can bring the kids and still have some privacy.)

Accessibility

The three ADA-certified and wheelchair-accessible cabins are marked on deck plans with a wheelchair symbol: two are 215-square-foot double ocean-view guest rooms; the other is an Aquamarine Suite. On its website, Crystal suggests that “guests with limited mobility should ideally be able to navigate the ship independently. Alternatively, they may opt to travel with a companion who can provide assistance if needed.”