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Thursday, April 25, 2024

The New 39mm Doxa SUB 200T Collection (incl. Video)

The design for Doxa’s signature diving watches, labelled SUB (and in particular the emblematic SUB 300 collection), was first introduced in 1966 and proved to be the blueprint for what we know and love today. While the iconic design has been retained over the years, Doxa has been playing around with the overall concept in recent years, with new materials and unexpected colour combinations, as found in the SUB 300β (BETA) range for instance. Even though the SUB 300 has always been a relatively compact watch once strapped around the wrist, this year Doxa has decided to bring something fresh and in line with the current expectations of the market… Indeed, smaller watches are all the rage and it’s the perfect timing for the launch of the new 39mm Doxa SUB 200T Collection.

After exploring materials, bolder styles and different colours, today it’s about exploring different sizes. It’s no secret that for a couple of years now, the market has shifted towards smaller watches (look at Tudor for instance with the Pelagos 39 or the Black Bay 54). While a 41-42mm dive watch used to be the standard size, more and more brands are now looking at sub-40mm cases again. And for the best, if you ask us. The brand’s cornerstone model, the Doxa SUB 300 collection, has never been a truly massive watch, despite a 42.50mm diameter. What matters here is the 45mm lug-to-lug dimension. Nevertheless, Doxa has decided to bring an even smaller model, with only minor concessions to the overall concept – and also an almost endless list of colours, including a brand new tone, never seen before on a Dox’…

This all-new Doxa SUB 200T series comes in a smaller stainless steel case, in line with current trends for more compact watches. The dimensions have dropped down to 39mm in diameter and 41.50mm in length – really, that’s a fairly small L2L measurement – with a height of only 10.70mm – that’s also pretty impressive for a dive watch – making it the most compact Doxa to date. The shape remains the same, with the emblematic barrel-shaped case, topped by a flat anti-reflective sapphire crystal, itself framed by a unidirectional bezel.

The dial layout for the new SUB 200T series follows the design of the other diving instruments, with an oversized minute hand, block-shaped markers, a contrasting crosshair and of course the brand’s name and model designation. The 3 o’clock marker makes way for an outlined and bevelled date window, which reveals a white disc with black numbers.

In terms of colours, Doxa sticks to its usual set of tones such as Professional Orange, Searambler Silver, Sharkhunter Black, Caribbean Navy, Divingstar Yellow, Aquamarine Turquoise and Whitepearl White. What’s new is that now, Doxa will give the choice between a flat or a sunray-brushed dial on most colours. And, with the introduction of this SUB 200T, we see the addition of a brand-new colour called Sea Emerald Green. 

To set itself apart from the existing colours, the sunray-brushed Sea Emerald Green dial is paired with gold-toned hands and markers, giving it a unique appeal. Other than that, it’s still a Doxa through and through, with 200m water resistance (the only concession that was made due to the reduced size, but 200m is more than enough for most recreational divers), a double-scale unidirectional rotating bezel, a screw-down crown and an automatic movement underneath a solid screwed caseback.

Inside, the Doxa SUB 200T comes with a Sellita SW200-1 automatic movement, with a frequency of 4Hz and a power reserve of 38 hours. Reliable, easy to service, precise enough…

Availability & Price

As usual, Doxa offers two options when it comes to strapping the SUB 200T around the wrist. For EUR 1,550 you can have a FKM Rubber Strap. If you prefer the Beads-of-Rice steel bracelet, the price will be EUR 1,590. Both options are fitted to a steel folding clasp with an adjustable wetsuit extension.

The Doxa SUB 200T is added to the permanent collection and is available immediately. Adding a more compact style to Doxa’s range of professional diving instruments without compromising what makes these watches so appealing is, in our opinion, a very clever move! More details at www.doxawatches.com.


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