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The Traditionalist: Arms-On With the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner | WatchTime

This text is from the WatchTime Archives and was initially printed in 2021.

As of 2020, the Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner with no date show, which many view because the archetypal dive watch, is barely bigger and has an up to date motion but stays true to its unique design. That is our first encounter with the brand new watch.

We needed to wait a very long time for the most recent Rolex improvements in 2020. Rolex offered a brand new technology of Oyster Perpetual Submariner and Submariner Date watches in September. These timepieces are barely bigger and are actually outfitted with new actions — the Submariner has the just lately unveiled Caliber 3230 and the brand new Submariner Date variations are utilizing the Caliber 3235 for the primary time. The Submariner Date provides a stunning array of colour combos whereas the Submariner with no date show stays true to its unique design. We have been capable of preview the brand new Submariner shortly after its introduction.

Upgraded Particulars End in New Proportions
In the event you suppose a Rolex innovation means a revolution, you’ll be mistaken. However the Submariner has been modified in order that the sum of the assorted particulars has resulted in a brand new watch. The diameter of the watch has grown from 40 mm to 41 mm, or extra exactly, from 40.6 mm to 41.36 mm, measured throughout the diagonal from 2 to eight o’clock. The crown guards and lugs are slimmer, however this has elevated the lug width by a complete millimeter, to 21 mm.

Rolex Oyster Perpetual Submariner - angle

These seemingly minor upgrades have modified the proportions of the whole watch — together with the primary physique of the case, bezel, dial and bracelet. This implies you’re a wholly new mannequin. In the event you place the brand new Oyster Perpetual Submariner subsequent to its predecessor (which is being discontinued) the modifications turn out to be obvious. The brand new Submariner seems to be rather more than only a millimeter bigger than the older model, which is because of the quite a few modifications of even the tiniest element.

Not fairly so obvious is the brand new in-house self-winding motion, Caliber 3230, as a result of simply as with all Rolex watch, it’s lined by a finely grooved caseback that’s screwed down hermetically with a particular key, and which may solely be opened by a Rolex-authorized watchmaker. The distinction within the Caliber 3235 is that there isn’t a date show on the Submariner dial.

In any other case all different options are the identical. The brand new Submariner is supplied with a Rolex-patented, progressive Chronergy escapement, comprised of a nickel-phosphorous alloy. It gives superior useful reliability with excessive vitality effectivity and is immune to the consequences of magnetic fields. The motion additionally has an optimized model of the Rolex Parachrom hairspring.

Rolex produces the hairspring in-house from a paramagnetic alloy, which makes it as much as 10 instances extra exact than standard hairsprings. It additionally has a particular Rolex overcoil that ensures a secure fee in all positions. The oscillator is supported by the wonderful Rolex- designed and patented Paraflex antishock system. Because of the upper effectivity of the escapement and barrel design, each the Caliber 3230 and the Caliber 3235 have an influence reserve of 70 hours. Along with the chronometer take a look at from COSC, the watch should additionally go the strict inside Rolex take a look at for a “Superlative Chronometer” which, based on the present specs from 2015, permits a deviation of not more than 2 seconds per day.

The Submariner comes from a time when dive watches have been used extra for skilled purposes than for leisure diving. For that reason, they continue to be true to their unique attraction at present — since studying the time clearly throughout a dive is a matter of life and demise. The clear and easy Submariner dial has subsequently remained unchanged. The hour and minutes palms are tailored from the Rolex Deepsea and are distinct from each other to be able to stop any confusion. The triangle, circle and rectangle markers are designed to supply orientation and elevated legibility, and to stop potential errors underwater or on dry floor. The palms and markers are coated with Rolex Chromalight luminous materials and glow brilliant blue in the dead of night. The outstanding dot on the finish of the seconds hand serves as a operate verify and can also be luminescent. As well as, the zero marker on the dive bezel can also be full of the identical luminous materials to supply higher orientation when setting dive instances.

The Dive Watch Stands Out with Technical Options
The bezel ratchets completely, counterclockwise, in crisp half-minute increments. Deeply knurled grooves across the edge present a safe grip for moist palms or diving gloves. The rotating ring has a numerical Cerachrom insert fabricated from a particular black ceramic. The recessed numerals and markers on the 60-minute observe are coated with a skinny layer of platinum utilizing a PVD course of. Rolex developed experience and an progressive manufacturing course of to create a sturdy, color-saturated and very scratch-resistant particular ceramic for the manufacturing of monobloc bezels and tracks, and now has its personal absolutely unbiased manufacturing of ceramic parts.

The bezel with its ceramic insert is a part of the sturdy Oyster case for which Rolex ensures a strain resistance of 30 bar, equivalent to a water depth of 300 meters. It’s the epitome of sturdiness and reliability. Its case body is manufactured from a single block of stainless-steel that’s terribly immune to corrosion, which Rolex calls “Oystersteel.” Along with the hermetically sealed caseback, the Triplock winding crown additionally ensures the desired water resistance with its triple seal, screw-down design and protecting crown guards. The highest crystal is fabricated from scratch-resistant sapphire. The Submariner Date provides a cyclops magnifier at 3 o’clock for enhanced legibility of the date.

The brand new Submariner is supplied with an Oyster bracelet, together with its patented Oysterlock folding security clasp and Glidelock extension system, which permits the bracelet to be merely prolonged as much as 20 mm utilizing a 10-step sliding aspect. A lot perfection wants no revolution to stay the undisputed normal amongst dive watches.

Rolex S.A., Rue François Dussaud 3-5, 1211 Geneva, Switzerland
Reference quantity: 124060
Features: Hours, minutes, heart sweep seconds, dive bezel
Motion: Rolex Caliber 3230, automated, chronometer, 28,800 vph, 31 jewels, Paraflex shock absorber, Rolex paramagnetic stability with 4 gold Microstella adjusting screws, blue Parachrom paramagnetic hairspring, COSC certification, Rolex Superlative Chronometer high quality seal (+/- 2 seconds per day after casing), 70-hour energy reserve, diameter = 29.3 mm, top = 6.20 mm
Case: Oystersteel, bezel with Cerachrom insert, sapphire crystal above dial, water-resistant to 300 meters
Bracelet and cla­­sp: Oystersteel bracelet with Oysterlock security folding clasp with Glidelock extension
Dimensions: Diameter = 41.36 mm, lug width = 21 mm built-in, top = 12.40 mm
Variations: Variations of the Submariner Date (particulars right here )
Worth: $8,100

To be taught extra, go to Rolex, right here.

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