As the fashion trends coming down the runway change every season, so too do the people behind them. This year, we saw several debuts from newly appointed creative directors, including Sabato de Sarno at Gucci and Pharrell Williams for Louis Vuitton Men. With the departures of highly influential creative directors like Gabriela Hearst and Sarah Burton, a new wave of designers will be entering the public eye in the upcoming year, ready to make their mark on the industry.
Though some labels were quick to announce new designers, some successive designers are yet to be named. Lanvin‘s Bruno Sialelli and Givenchy’s Matthew M. Williams have recently stepped down from their creative director roles, leaving uncertainty in their wake and pending announcements to look forward to.
Get to know some of the new creative directors making their debuts in 2024.
Chemena Kamali
After Gabriela Hearst‘s departure from Chloé was announced, German designer Chemena Kamali was appointed as the next creative director of the French luxury label. Kamali previously worked with the label under former creative directors Phoebe Philo and Clare Waight Keller.
“I am proud to welcome Chemena Kamali to Chloé. Her extraordinary creative talent, extensive experience, and unique connection with the brand’s legacy and values make her a natural choice for the Maison,” Riccardo Bellini, president and CEO of Chloé, said in a statement. “Chemena’s vision, inspired by her love for the brand, will truly celebrate Chloé’s unique DNA. Chemena is both the Creative Director of Chloé and the embodiment of the Chloé spirit. I am excited to see her vision come to life.”
Kamali studied fashion design at Central Saint Martins and following her graduation, began working under Philo in 2007 at Chloé. Kamali returned once again to Chloé in 2013, where she was the design director under Waight Keller. Three years later in 2016, Kamali joined Saint Laurent as the ready-to-wear design director under Anthony Vacarello.
“My heart has always been Chloé’s,” said Kamali regarding her return to the Maison, “It has been since I stepped through its doors more than 20 years ago. Returning feels natural and very personal. I am extremely honored to be taking on this role and to be building on the vision that Gaby Aghion and Karl Lagerfeld defined early in the Maison’s history. I hope to capture the emotional connection and spirit of Chloé for today.”
Kamali will make her design debut as Chloé’s creative director in January 2024 with the release of a pre-fall collection followed by a runway debut with a Fall/Winter 2024 collection just a month later for Paris Fashion Week.
Matteo Tamburini
As of early December of 2023, Matteo Tamburini has been appointed the next creative director of Italian luxury label Tod’s, following the exit of Walter Chiapponi, who previously held the role but announced his departure in September.
Tamburini arrives at Tod’s from Bottega Veneta, where he has worked since 2017 under former creative director Tomas Maier.
“I am honored and excited to join the Tod’s family and become part of a brand that is so closely tied to my origins and memories,” Tamburini said. “I identify myself with the brand’s values and the continuous pursuit of high quality and style it has undertaken until now, and I look forward to contributing with my expertise.”
Tamburini’s directorial debut will be the women’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection at Milan Fashion Week in February.
Seán McGirr
Following the presentation of her Spring/Summer 2024 runway collection, Sarah Burton, Alexander McQueen’s longtime creative director, announced her departure from the label. Just a few short days later, Kering announced the appointment of Seán McGirr to the role.
McGirr, another Central Saint Martins alum, graduated with an MA in Fashion in 2014. Yet another newly appointed creative director with an impressive resume, McGirr began his fashion career at Burberry and Vogue Hommes Japan, where he worked in assisting roles, and later moved on to a women’s designer role at Dries van Noten. Most recently, McGirr oversaw both the menswear and womenswear collections at JW Anderson.
“We are delighted to welcome Seán McGirr as Creative Director,” Gianfilippo Testa, CEO of Alexander McQueen, said in a statement. “With his experience, personality, and creative energy, he will bring a powerful creative language to Alexander McQueen while building on its unique heritage.”
Alessandro Vigilante
Last spring, Alessandro Vigilante was quietly appointed creative director of Rochas. Vigilante is expected to reboot the luxury label, focusing on clothing and fragrance to revive the brand. With an impressive list of clients like Monica Belluci, Scarlett Johansson, and Jennifer Lopez at Dolce & Gabbana, and Lupita Nyong’o, Salma Hayek, and Madonna at Gucci, as well as a namesake brand launched in 2020, Vigilante has made a name for himself as a young, innovative designer.
Following the announcement of his new role, Vigilante said, “I am honored and grateful to join Maison Rochas and to have the opportunity to develop the rich and profound heritage of the Maison. Rochas represents a dedication to French sophistication and a celebration of femininity that I find incredibly inspiring. I can’t wait to convey my vision.”
Vigilante presented his first capsule collection, taking into account both his own creative ambitions as well as the legacy and philosophy of the storied fashion house, to some editors in July 2023, just six weeks after taking the role at Rochas. The reboot of the brand is already in motion, but Vigilante is planning to present a Fall/Winter 2024 collection at Paris Fashion Week in February 2024, a move sure to launch the luxury house into a new age.
