On November 28, 1973, a historic fashion show took place at the Palace of Versailles in France. Organized by celebrated American fashion publicist Eleanor Lambert—also the founder of New York Fashion Week and the Met Gala—and then-Versailles curator Gerald Van der Kamp, the show took place with the objective of raising money to restore the palace to its former glory.
The Battle of Versailles, which initially started as a simple publicity stunt and fundraiser, morphed into an impressive showdown between American and French designers and is remembered today as a monumental moment in fashion history, and a transformative event in the American fashion industry.
With over 700 influential guests, including Princess Grace of Monaco, Marie-Hélène de Rothschild, Andy Warhol, Liza Minelli, and Joséphine Baker, the event was an unparalleled success in both its original goal of publicity and fundraising for the French cultural institution, as well as in promoting Lambert’s American clients.
Among the American designers invited to showcase their designs at the Battle of Versailles were Oscar de la Renta, Stephen Burrows, Halston, Bill Blass, and Anne Klein, all of whom, while extremely successful in the United States, had yet to have the level of international acclaim that their opponents, five revered French haute couture designers had. French designers present included Yves Saint Laurent, Pierre Cardin, Emanuel Ungaro, Marc Bohan, and Hubert de Givenchy.
In 1973, the United States was not considered an equal counterpart to the French fashion industry and was certainly not favored by the primarily French audience present at the event to win. The Parisian designers, known for their distinct innovative, luxury-oriented styles, were thought to have a vast advantage over the American designers, many of whom were known prior to this event solely for their economic success in the sportswear and ready-to-wear markets.
In a remarkable, and supremely unexpected, turn of events, the American designers stole the show through sleek, fresh designs, captivating runway shows, and a radical display of diversity in the models on the stage. Of the 36 models hired by American designers, 10 were Black women, proving this event to be historic in the opportunities it opened within the industry both for designers, as well as for models. Among the American models were famed figures like Pat Cleveland, Billie Blair, Toukie Smith, Alva Chinn, and Bethann Hardison, all of whom developed close, working relationships with the designers.
The occurrence of the event itself—including the runway showdown, an extravagant gala following the show, and the entertaining performances, including shows from cultural icons like Liza Minelli, Jane Birkin, and Joséphine Baker, on stage— was historic, to say the least, but even more monumental were the opportunities that followed the Battle of Versailles. This massive cultural event gave way to increased representation in the global fashion industry, for both designers and models, skyrocketing American fashion culture to the forefront of the international scene and introducing the world to a new era of fashion.
