After winning American Womenswear Designer of the Year at the CFDA Fashion Awards for two consecutive years, the stakes for Catherine Holstein are high this season. Fortunately, the Khaite founder and creative director doesn’t disappoint with her latest runway show. Modern minimalism may be at the heart of many of Khaite’s designs, but for its Fall/Winter 2024 collection, Holstein takes the New York-based luxury label to a whole new level of chic and sophistication. Think Mob Wife Aesthetic, but with an elevated, Manhattan girl boss attitude that boasts confidence and authority in an understated fashion.
Contrary to popular belief, “minimalist” isn’t synonymous with boring. In fact, true to its reputation for “quiet luxury,” Khaite is praised for pulling off interesting combinations that otherwise would not have seemed conceivable—like the leather and fur dress from its Fall/Winter 2023 collection, or even its popular knit dress that features a fringe skirt. But it works because it’s done in such an articulate way that speaks to the brand’s DNA. Khaite simply commands attention, yet in a refreshing manner that avoids being loud and extravagant.
This season, Khaite maintained the modest elegance synonymous with the brand. But it did things a little differently. From the dimly lit set with faint spotlights to the dark colors, the collection exuded a sense of power and authority. Whether it was the eye-catching slew of fur, leather, and satin or the striking red lips and blackout sunglasses that scream nonchalance, the runway was a testament to Khaite’s pleasingly bold yet refined aesthetic.
Amidst the dark elements that dominated the collection, there was a notable inclusion of sheer fabrics and layering pieces with a daring aura. Despite a few pops of colors here and there, ultimately, the collection stayed true to its roots with primarily dark, neutral tones and occasional splashes of burgundy wines, pale blues, and whites for a hint of contrast. Khaite’s modern luxury style was reinvigorated with an infusion of subtly avant-garde shapes, showcasing asymmetrical designs and dramatically long and oversized silhouettes mingled with cinched and cropped pieces. And as for the beauty: makeup and hair remained sleek, clean, and polished. The overall atmosphere, both in the fashion and the set, was undeniably bold and mysterious, encapsulating the essence of the Empire State’s authoritative fashion scene.
