Gabriela Hearst’s latest collection showcased quality-driven pieces inspired by female leaders and warriors. This can be seen through the structured bodices, inspired by the Greek goddess Athena. Surrealism was also on Hearst’s mind with this collection, as many of the pieces had unconventional yet visually interesting silhouettes. The wool shift dresses and blanket-like coats come to mind. Hearst was also inspired by Lenora Carrington, a British painter writer, and participant of the surrealist movement, who indulged in the uncanny and created paintings of dreamlike worlds. The shape of Carrington’s Head Mask took form in the black corsetted dress with a floating hemline.
The designer’s Fall/Winter 2024 collection features simple yet well-made outerwear, woven knits, and head-to-toe leather looks. Focused on the intersection between sustainability and fashion, Hearst prioritizes ethically sourcing her materials by using deadstock and eliminating virgin materials. The denim duster coat, for example, is recycled cotton rather than new raw denim, and the faux fur coats are made of woven cashmere rather than synthetic materials made to look like fur.
The show opened with a simple yet elegant black trench coat lined with black “fur.” This look is in keeping with the brand’s minimalistic and quietly luxurious aesthetic. The stunning shearling coat featured in the third look is a bit more of a statement, yet it isn’t loud and maintains elegance. The sultry black and white silk dresses with delicate lace detailing and the various knit pieces stood out as they added versatility to the collection that is heavy in well-built outerwear. Many pieces, including the semi-sheer dress featured in Look 27, are reminiscent of Hearst’s time at Chloé. Nevertheless, it’s clear Hearst’s eponymous brand uniquely highlights her aesthetic. The stylish drapey silhouettes and androgynous design choices Hearst is known for brilliantly shone through this afternoon.
The collection’s finale added a bold finish to the mix in the form of a glossy gold single-shoulder top paired with a black silk maxi skirt and a gold strapless gown with a structured bodice.
